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View Full Version : "It's a bit runnier than you'd like"-- Cheese Tray III



CompassRose
07-16-2004, 05:50 PM
This will probably be the last of the delightful Cheese Tray Suppers for some time; as of August 2, the dairy goes, the fruit goes... indeed, pretty much all fun food departs for fairer and less cardio-infested climes for three months. But let's not dwell on that.

Earlier this week, we'd thought we'd drive out to Hamilton for Friday dinner (rumour has it that there is an excellent new East Indian restaurant there). Today, however, has been hot, and we're both tired. The Fancy Deli is a mere few minutes walk away, down a pleasant rail-trail that the dog enjoys. Time, said we, each to each, for a Cheese Tray. The British Raj can wait for next week, which will be the Week of the Last Hurrah.

We returned with our small but startlingly costly bag, and settled down before the BBC version of The Final Problem (starring Jeremy Brett) -- a nice, civilised accompaniment.

The first entry on tonight's tray (a board, actually, but never mind) was Pont L'Eveque, (http://www.cheese-france.com/cheese/pont_leveque.htm) chosen by A. This cheese of Normandy has been made for over seven hundred years, and according to the wee label stuck into it at the Deli, is "the most popular cheese in France." I see that it sez on the website that it has "a delicate bouquet". I suppose, in the field of Stinky Cheeses (in which it is definitely to be included) that this is true, but it certainly possesses a distinct aroma. A. didn't much care for it (he's not a big fan of the entire Dirty Sock group of cheese); I of course quite liked it. As I say, not too room-clearing, and a rich, creamy, rather forward flavour -- also a toothsome, non-leathery rind. I am fond of the rind on a soft cheese.

Second was another soft, rinded cheese, this one Morbier. (http://www.fromage-morbier.com/english/home.html) This is an interesting little cheese (recall my predilection for the weird and rustic in a cheese) with a layer of ash in the middle. Oo! I see that this is one of those wicked unpasteurised cheeses; also that the layer of ash separates the morning milk from the afternoon milk. Fascinating, the incredible variety of things one can do to an apparently simple secretion of cow. I've read of it before, since it is rumoured to be one of the most obnoxiously (http://www.fact-index.com/m/mo/morbier_cheese.html) smelly of cheeses. Our experience, however, belied that. Mild in smell, even milder in taste, I thought. Perhaps this specimen was jet-lagged. Anyway, I thought it was dull, except for the slight vague crunch of the ash in its creamy blandness, and A. didn't think much of it either. I will reserve judgement on Morbier.

Third, the blue entry: Fourme d'Ambert. (http://www.cheese-france.com/cheese/fourme_ambert.htm) The label stuck into this one said "one of the oldest cheeses in France, dating back to the time of the Romans" and that would have hooked me whatever it tasted like. As it turned out, it was a lovely little cheese. This is a mild, unctuous, yet generously flavoured blue, and even A. liked it. It's more on the order of say a Cambozola, but a bit more complex than the specimens of that I've had.

In all that sea of creamy mellowness, there was one interloper, from Italy. Alas, I cannot find you a web reference for Caccio di Fossa, but this is a very nifty cheese, picked by A. -- again for the detail on those luring little cards. Caccio di Fossa, apparently, is ripened for a while, then dropped into barrels of water, where it sits while the whey leaches out of it. When it's ready, the cheeses, now wizened and shriveled in appearance, bob to the surface. This was the unanimous Cheese of the Evening, and won rounds of tastebud applause. It's a dry, rather crumbly cheese, in taste and texture reminiscent of a really nice Romano, only not near so jawbreaking. Salty, piquant and full of character (and tiny little holes) this was a very fine cheese, either on bread or just out of hand (the crumbly bits that fell off the slices). We wished we had bought more of this little fellow.

We did, however, buy dessert as well from the cases at the front of the Deli -- but that's another story. Oh, and The Final Problem? Quite good, but the very visible ropes in Holmes' and Moriarty's Dramatic Plunge to Death quite ruined the mood of what should have been a tragic moment. As A. said, "fight scenes have never been a BBC strong point."

Thank you, one and all, for joining me in another vicarious Cheese Tray! And wish me strength for the coming three cheeseless (and chocolateless, and ice-cream-less) months. :(

Katharine

wallycat
07-16-2004, 05:53 PM
I love these posts :)

Sorry you will be cheeseless for 3 months.....

leannebw
07-16-2004, 06:31 PM
I love these adventures in cheese too!

You left us with a cliffhanger though. What did you have for dessert???

funniegrrl
07-16-2004, 06:31 PM
Your posts make me wish more fervently that I was not on a low-fat, small-portion regimen m'self. *sigh*

Pray, what type of bread do you typically enjoy with these cheeses? A variety, or just one? Sourdough or regular wheat? White or Whole Grain? Also, what manner of accompaniments do you have?

I really enjoy your tales of Cheese Adverturing, not just for the info but the writing style is quite entertaining. You should be a food writer ... :)

CompassRose
07-16-2004, 06:41 PM
We had two breads tonight. One was an Artisan Bread (itch! I am becoming almost as sensitive to the word "artisan," used as a descriptor of food, as to "gourmet") -- a potato bread with caramelised onions. A. picked that one. I, myself, went for one of my favourites, Portuguese corn bread. It's made with wheat and corn flour, not corn meal, and I really like it with cheese -- it's got a good solid fine grain, and a hearty but unintrusive flavour. The potato-and-onion bread was yummy too, but I prefer not to have fancy flavoured breads with cheeses that have those sorts of eye-popping price tags.

Sometimes we have sliced apples, or grapes, with our trays, but not tonight (lazy, tired :p -- also, there was no Gjetost, which demands slivers of tart apple below), and I also like the really dark, wet, crumbly German pumpernickel ryes.

We did have one other thing, a lovely spread we've discovered recently. It's called (runs downstairs to get jar) Pindjur (argh! "Gourmet Vegetable Appetizer" :rolleyes: ) and it's a Bulgarian thing (made by a company called Giorgio). Composed of roasted red peppers, tomato paste, eggplants, onions, and a bit of oil, vinegar and spices. Tasty stuff! (it's what I spread on my slices of onion bread). Also very, very delish in a morning egg-sub omelette -- and not even too terribly damaging to the diet (such as it's been lately -- not only have I fallen off the wagon, the last couple of weeks, I've pretty much temporarily lost sight of the road!). A mere eleven calories or so per richly savourous tablespoon, even if half of those come from fat.

CompassRose
07-16-2004, 06:49 PM
Dessert? Er, heh. What did I say about the wagon? Oink.

We bought: a triple-chocolate brownie, a Hollander (layered, Napoleonlike cake-thing with puff pastry and jelly atop and a lot of whipped cream inside), a slice of Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Torte and a miniature French Lemon Tart. And cut them into slivers for a sort of home-grown dessert tasting menu. The Hollander was to die for, even though it collapsed messily when I cut it in half (nothing like a fresh pastry with real whipped cream, just as there's nothing like (in a quite different fashion) a stale one); the truffle torte would've killed me for sure if I hadn't already died with the Hollander (oh! dark chocolate and raspberries and ganache! glorious!), and the brownie was, well, a brownie, and I only had one small sliver and wished I hadn't spoiled the other two things with it. A. ate the whole Lemon Tart himself, though I tried the filling; I'm not so big on tarts usually if there's anything else.

A. sez he wants me to make him a Raspberry Truffle Torte for his birthday (a week after the competition in November thank goodness) though he may have changed his mind by then...

imloulou
07-16-2004, 07:10 PM
Katharine!!!!!!

I love these threads! I LOVE CHEESE and BREAD! I could live on the two. I have absolutely no access to the cheeses that you mention but love reading your reviews.

Maybe that is what I need to do when I grow up...open a cheese shop...LOL!!!:D

Good luck on your 3 month sabbatical. I look forward to your next review!!!

Gilgamesh37
07-16-2004, 07:24 PM
Katharine, I'm with everyone else. I LOVE these threads. I love the way you write generally, but the way you write about these cheese trays is beyond even your usual. I'm not much of a cheese adventurer (the various cheese threads on the BB prompted me to buy my first Montrachet the other night) but reading this makes me want to run out and buy something....really stinky. Thanks!!!

jlo_of_hotlanta
07-16-2004, 09:37 PM
You know, I'm not generally a cheese fan, but your posts on the subject make my mouth water and the wheels in my brain turn ... How to add more cheese to my repertoire? Could I successfully throw a cheese party? << answer ... probably not! But I love reading about yours!

Thanks!

Ashley

Kayaksoup
07-17-2004, 09:30 PM
I have tried that Forme d' Ambert and really loved it. We were working our way alphabetically through the local cheese shop, but we kind of dropped around "K".

Good luck with the abstinence from the good things. Such willpower you have!

HejazSunKat
07-18-2004, 12:28 AM
Originally posted by CompassRose
it was a lovely little cheese...

LOL...this sounds like it could be the first or last line of a novel. :) Come to think of it, these missives from the cheese world are like little novellas. We'll miss your reports...really, must you become an ascetic?

gabbyh
07-18-2004, 08:28 AM
Katharine,

You make me want to go out and buy a big hunk of EVERY cheese you mention! Your reviews are wonderful!!!

I must have missed something...why the 3 month hiatus coming up?

~Gail

CompassRose
07-18-2004, 11:50 AM
Edge Nutrition Windsor Cup Bodybuilding, Fitness and Figure Championships, November 6. I'm just hoping twelve weeks is long enough to strip the cheese- and chocolate-induced layer of fluff off me!

Kayak, it has nothing to do with willpower. :p Once I'm committed to a comp date, if I feel tempted, all I have to do is try on my posing suit (http://passionfruitdesigns.com/proflenfrlat.jpg) and look in the mirror at the bits still hanging out of it. No room for error in these diets -- or those bikinis. :eek:

(thank you to all of you who said lovely things about my cheesey reviews. I'm so glad I'm not boring you with my silliness.)

crazycook
07-18-2004, 07:33 PM
Katharine,

Once again, I've thoroughly enjoyed your description of each cheese on your cheese tray. ....oooooohh and the desserts too! Yummy!

I wish you luck with your competition. I envy your willpower and commitment to your sport. I do, however, look forward to your return to cheese exploration.

Anna :)

TerriS
07-18-2004, 07:49 PM
What a great post! Well timed because we just went to a cheese tasting sponsored by Whole Foods earlier this week, where one of our favorites was the Pont L'Eveque! I am strongly anti-stinky cheese but I liked this fairly well, especially with wine.

At a previous tasting we tried the Morbier. Now, I have a visceral reaction to any kind of blue cheese. I just really really don't like it. So when my darling husband begged me to try it, I wasn't too hopeful, but PHEW, I cannot handle that stuff. Hubby loved it. I affectionally refer to it as a-s-s cheese instead of ash cheese. :p

We also had a marvelous aged gouda, something called ossam iraty, and one of those marvelous cheddars laced with porter. :D