Staining/graining doors

[HDgirl]

Any of you do-it-yourself people ever do this? I will be doing two steel doors with this technique and was looking for any tips. I'm using Zar stain and have the graining tool. It doesn't look too difficult but I always like to hear feedback.

TIA,
Karen

[CompassRose]

We've done a lot of this, though not on steel. We've had our best results, actually, graining wood stain (which is a bit translucent) over paint, rather than using the paint effects stuff.

Don't just use the graining tool -- it looks totally like a graining tool. Keep a dry brush to hand, and smooth/feather the edges of the effect a bit. Try to vary the rhythm of your "rock", so that you don't get repeated stripes of the same thing over and over again like wood-grain calico. Plus think about how a big slab like a door doesn't have repeated heartwood all over it anyway (unless it's plywood, which is probably not the effect you're going for) and maybe try making a "heart" then taking the comb part around it a bit.

And if you haven't done it before, prep up a sample slab of scrap wood or something. In fact, even if you have done it before -- I think it always helps to sort of get into the rhythm before actually mucking up your real project on the first drag and needing to wipe it off and get all testy before you've even properly started.

Also, once you have your grained doors, and are looking at it thinking "wow, that so looks like wood! I'm so pleased with myself!" it is good to clearcoat on top of it. Or the graining can chip, if it's a place where wear or knocks can be expected.

[HDgirl]

Excellent! The pamphlet says I can do this while the door is hung or take it down. I would think it would be better to have it down but it may not be practical with the drying times and all. I'm doing exterior doors. What do you think?

[CompassRose]

Well, I've done it on trim and baseboards, and it was uncomplicated. As long as your graining stuff doesn't get "trickly" when you mix it, it should be okay. The only thing is that you won't be able to shut the doors (to keep them steady) or you'll get marks from the frame, at least on the one side. So if you don't have a helper to stand there and hold it for you, carefully avoiding the wet bits, the whole time you're graining, you might want to take them down. You do need the surface to be steady, whether in the vertical or horizontal plane, so that you can control the graining tool.

[HDgirl]

OK then, I guess if I don't get a few decent days to do this it's going to have to wait until Spring. I think I will take them down since I'm a newbie with this particular technique.

Thanks for your help!

[VictoriaL]

Way cool to have found someone else who "grains", CompassRose! :D
I've done lots of doors, window and door trim, baseboards, floors, etc. My absolute favorite graining tool is a "wide as possible" brush (an relatively inexpensive one) that I cut up a bit, which gives a graining effect due to the varying levels of pressure on the bristles.
I can't for the life of me figure out how to explain this.
But a professional that DH & I hired to do 18' high walls for us (which was way beyond my capabilities) taught me what to do. If anyone is interested, pm me and I'll make an attempt at a description of the ol' brush cutting technique!