funniegrrl
04-13-2005, 10:20 AM
One of our daily papers carries Wolfgang Puck's weekly column. I thought today's recipe sounded good, and I like the idea of making "mushroom essence" to have on hand.
Go wild with mushrooms
By Wolfgang Puck
April 13, 2005
I’m wild about mushrooms of any kind — no vegetable satisfies me more. Promise me a steady supply of quality mushrooms and I could live a vegetarian life — well, almost.
My favorites are wild mushrooms. Don’t misunderstand me, though. I’m not a big mushroom hunter or forager, and I strongly urge anyone considering traipsing through the woods in search of hidden mushroom treasures to be extremely careful lest they accidentally harvest a potentially toxic type. Leave such activities to the experts who always consult an authoritative guide, avoid any specimens in the least bit doubtful, and consult a mycologist (mushroom scientist) when necessary.
The only place you’ll find me foraging is at a reputable produce provider who has reliable sources of the wild mushrooms that chefs prize. There are wonderfully chewy, rich-tasting morels; golden or black trumpet-shaped chanterelles; delicate oyster mushrooms; and the aromatic variety known alternately by the French cepes or Italian porcini (I’m partial to the latter name, which translates as “little pigs,” a good description of both their plump shape and their sweet, meaty flavor).
Truth be told, most mushrooms today are cultivated commercially. Lumped in among them under the “wild” label are also two of my absolute favorites, not least because they’re now so widely available: Portobello mushrooms (the large, fully matured form of crimino mushrooms, the latter sometimes called “baby bellos”); and Japanese shiitakes. Both have such big, flat, round, flavorful caps that they’re sometimes grilled and served on burger buns in place of beef patties.
Whatever type you buy, store them in your refrigerator in a paper bag and use them within a day or two. Before cooking, trim their stems with a small, sharp knife. Gently wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp cloth or paper towel. If they’re especially dirty, you might need to rinse them very briefly with cold water; but don’t leave them in contact with water any longer than necessary, as they’re as absorbent as sponges.
For the same reason, mushrooms are often at their best when cooked very quickly over high heat, as I do for the pasta sauce in the recipe that follows. They’re also wonderfully flavorful when cooked for a long time to concentrate their flavor to an intense essence, a trick I also use in the recipe. My mushroom essence, which you can prepare well in advance, has such a rich taste that just a few spoonfuls make a big impression upon four servings of pasta. The rest of the essence refrigerates or freezes well, ready for another batch of pasta or to enrich sauces for meat or poultry.
So get ready, get set, and go foraging for mushrooms — in your market.
Tagliatelle with Shiitake Mushrooms and Asparagus
Serves 4
Mushroom Essence
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1/2 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems trimmed, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons each finely diced carrot, celery and onion
2 teaspoons minced shallot
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup canned good-quality chicken broth
1/4 cup heavy cream
Pinch minced fresh thyme leaves
Salt
Freshly ground white pepper
Mushroom sauce
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 pound shiitake mushrooms, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 heaping tablespoon minced shallot
2 teaspoons minced garlic
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups good quality canned chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Pasta
3/4 pound dried tagliatelle or fettuccine pasta
16 medium asparagus spears, trimmed and cut into bite-sized pieces
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
At least 1 hour before serving, or up to 1 month ahead, make the Mushroom Essence. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and sauté until golden, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms, carrot, celery, onion and shallot and sauté, stirring constantly, 2 minutes more. Reduce the heat to medium, add the wine, and cook until no excess liquid remains, about 10 minutes. Add the broth and cook, stirring occasionally, until about 1/4 cup liquid remains, about 8 minutes more. Stir in the cream, thyme and salt and pepper to taste.
Set the mixture aside to cool for 10 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor and puree. Set aside; or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 4 days or freeze up to 1 month.
About 30 minutes before serving time, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Meanwhile, make the Mushroom Sauce: In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over high heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat, stir in the shallot, garlic and butter, and continue cooking just until the butter melts completely.
Stir in the broth and 3 tablespoons of the Mushroom Essence. As soon as the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat and cook gently for 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm.
Meanwhile, put the tagliatelle or fettuccine into the boiling water. Cook until tender but still slightly chewy, following the manufacturer’s suggested cooking time. About 2 minutes before the pasta is done, add the asparagus pieces to the water.
Pour the pasta and asparagus into a colander to drain. Add them to the sauce and gently toss to coat well. Remove from the heat and stir in the Parmesan. Taste again and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Evenly divide the pasta, mushrooms, asparagus and sauce among 4 large heated serving plates, arranging some of the asparagus tips and mushroom slices attractively on top. Garnish with parsley and basil and serve immediately.
Go wild with mushrooms
By Wolfgang Puck
April 13, 2005
I’m wild about mushrooms of any kind — no vegetable satisfies me more. Promise me a steady supply of quality mushrooms and I could live a vegetarian life — well, almost.
My favorites are wild mushrooms. Don’t misunderstand me, though. I’m not a big mushroom hunter or forager, and I strongly urge anyone considering traipsing through the woods in search of hidden mushroom treasures to be extremely careful lest they accidentally harvest a potentially toxic type. Leave such activities to the experts who always consult an authoritative guide, avoid any specimens in the least bit doubtful, and consult a mycologist (mushroom scientist) when necessary.
The only place you’ll find me foraging is at a reputable produce provider who has reliable sources of the wild mushrooms that chefs prize. There are wonderfully chewy, rich-tasting morels; golden or black trumpet-shaped chanterelles; delicate oyster mushrooms; and the aromatic variety known alternately by the French cepes or Italian porcini (I’m partial to the latter name, which translates as “little pigs,” a good description of both their plump shape and their sweet, meaty flavor).
Truth be told, most mushrooms today are cultivated commercially. Lumped in among them under the “wild” label are also two of my absolute favorites, not least because they’re now so widely available: Portobello mushrooms (the large, fully matured form of crimino mushrooms, the latter sometimes called “baby bellos”); and Japanese shiitakes. Both have such big, flat, round, flavorful caps that they’re sometimes grilled and served on burger buns in place of beef patties.
Whatever type you buy, store them in your refrigerator in a paper bag and use them within a day or two. Before cooking, trim their stems with a small, sharp knife. Gently wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp cloth or paper towel. If they’re especially dirty, you might need to rinse them very briefly with cold water; but don’t leave them in contact with water any longer than necessary, as they’re as absorbent as sponges.
For the same reason, mushrooms are often at their best when cooked very quickly over high heat, as I do for the pasta sauce in the recipe that follows. They’re also wonderfully flavorful when cooked for a long time to concentrate their flavor to an intense essence, a trick I also use in the recipe. My mushroom essence, which you can prepare well in advance, has such a rich taste that just a few spoonfuls make a big impression upon four servings of pasta. The rest of the essence refrigerates or freezes well, ready for another batch of pasta or to enrich sauces for meat or poultry.
So get ready, get set, and go foraging for mushrooms — in your market.
Tagliatelle with Shiitake Mushrooms and Asparagus
Serves 4
Mushroom Essence
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1/2 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems trimmed, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons each finely diced carrot, celery and onion
2 teaspoons minced shallot
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup canned good-quality chicken broth
1/4 cup heavy cream
Pinch minced fresh thyme leaves
Salt
Freshly ground white pepper
Mushroom sauce
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 pound shiitake mushrooms, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 heaping tablespoon minced shallot
2 teaspoons minced garlic
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups good quality canned chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
Pasta
3/4 pound dried tagliatelle or fettuccine pasta
16 medium asparagus spears, trimmed and cut into bite-sized pieces
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
At least 1 hour before serving, or up to 1 month ahead, make the Mushroom Essence. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and sauté until golden, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms, carrot, celery, onion and shallot and sauté, stirring constantly, 2 minutes more. Reduce the heat to medium, add the wine, and cook until no excess liquid remains, about 10 minutes. Add the broth and cook, stirring occasionally, until about 1/4 cup liquid remains, about 8 minutes more. Stir in the cream, thyme and salt and pepper to taste.
Set the mixture aside to cool for 10 minutes. Transfer to a blender or food processor and puree. Set aside; or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 4 days or freeze up to 1 month.
About 30 minutes before serving time, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Meanwhile, make the Mushroom Sauce: In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over high heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat, stir in the shallot, garlic and butter, and continue cooking just until the butter melts completely.
Stir in the broth and 3 tablespoons of the Mushroom Essence. As soon as the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat and cook gently for 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm.
Meanwhile, put the tagliatelle or fettuccine into the boiling water. Cook until tender but still slightly chewy, following the manufacturer’s suggested cooking time. About 2 minutes before the pasta is done, add the asparagus pieces to the water.
Pour the pasta and asparagus into a colander to drain. Add them to the sauce and gently toss to coat well. Remove from the heat and stir in the Parmesan. Taste again and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Evenly divide the pasta, mushrooms, asparagus and sauce among 4 large heated serving plates, arranging some of the asparagus tips and mushroom slices attractively on top. Garnish with parsley and basil and serve immediately.