Paris here I come

[skyllo]

After months of trying to plan, going back and forth on when and if I should book a package deal, etc. I finally held my breath and bought my ticket to France for the end of September, 10 days in Paris (or wherever I travel from there, belgium for sure). My friend decided to join me as well. I found decently cheap airline tickets, so I decided we'll just do hotels or hostels separately.
Yay!! It hasn't really sunk in yet I don't think, I'm still kinda freaked!
But, any advice on good districts, hotels, must see things, from anyone, please, pour on in!!

Merci!
Sarah

[Capucine]

Bon Jour!!!

All I can say is that I'm very envious!! Paris is my absolute favorite. Such a beautiful city. And so much to do there. I couldn't even begin to list everything. I would suggest that your take a look at the Fodors BB for European travel. There are some serious travelers there and they are full of information. Needless to say, Paris is discussed alot!!! You should do a search of the forum and you'll find endless threads on Paris. Including hotels, restaurants, etc.

I'll be watching this thread and living vicariously through you as you plan. ;)

[Capucine]

Here is the link to the Fodor's BB

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2

[HejazSunKat]

If you don't speak French you might want to pick up a menu reader. I bought one for my 2nd trip there in 2003 and it was invaluable.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1593600151/qid=1124710274/sr=8-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/104-2757768-6587145?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

I also found Sandra Gustafson's - Great Eats Paris helpful:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0811840360/qid=1124710306/sr=2-1/ref=pd_bbs_b_2_1/104-2757768-6587145?v=glance&s=books

I agree with Capucine that Fodor's is a great website and I would suggest you have a look at their restaurant recommendations.

Also, you must go to the Musee D'Orsay. I love smaller museums because you feel like you accomplished something and this one is lovely because it's housed in a converted train station and has a beautiful collection of impressionist paintings among other great works. Very enjoyable. You're going to love Paris.

[mbrogier]

You can buy a museum pass for all the days you are in Paris. It covers the Musee D'Orsay, the Louvre, several others and Versaille (if the fountains are still running, definitely plan on visiting on Sunday afternoon when they are turned on). You can also buy a rail pass to use in France and one to use throughout continental Europe based on how many travel days you plan on using. Both of these are cheaper to purchase stateside. When I went in '97, to upgrade to the TGV in France, the difference in fares was something like $4. (a steal!)

I really wouldn't worry about finding hotels that serve a continental breakfast. You'll be drawn to the smell of fresh pastries in the bakeries anyway and it is cheaper...

My favorite must visit foodie place is Cafe Angelique in the Place de la Concorde near the Louvre. They serve the richest best hot chocolate ever. It is called Chocolat L'Afrique. (you can also buy it packaged to make at home) The Maison de Chocolate chocolatier isn't a bad stop either... :D

[skyllo]

Thanks for the tips so far :) I'm definitely going to go to the Musee D'orsay, and I might skip the Louvre. I like Impressionist paintings the most anyway, and I think the long lines and all of the Louvre might not be worth it. Am I wrong? I also have heard so much about the stained glass at St. Micheal ( I think this is the place...I'm tired right now)...
I've looked on the Fodders sight and France.com and I agree the bulletin boards are really helpful, I somehow start thinking I'm the only one going to Paris when there's a million others planning the same thing!
I can't wait to picnic with a bottle of wine, a chunk of cheese, and bread overlooking the eiffel tower, I still don't *really* believe I'm going in just over a month, yay!! I still have to buy the backpack, some comfortable reliable shoes (that's going to be difficult), and maybe a skirt of two.
Does anyone know of the average weather for late sept./early october? what to expect, what kind of coat? I was thinking of buying a trench coat and bringing a sweater along.
Anyways, Merci again,

Sarah

[staceye]

Sarah-

Oh, man, I'm jealous! We went to Paris for the first time in May and I so want to go back.

My main bit of advice would be NOT to skip the Louvre. It seems rather like a Paris cliche, but believe me, it's really, really overwhelming once you're there and standing face to face with works of art that are hundreds of years old. Yes, it can be crowded, especially around our dear "Mona." If you buy a museum pass, you get to go in through a special line with no wait...the pass is worth it if you're planning to go to a few museums within a few days' time. One way to easily see the highlights of the Louvre is to take along Rick Steve's Paris Guidebook. He gives you a tour that hits some very interesting pieces (and gives you the background). His book also includes a Musee D'Orsay tour that we also really liked.

You can find tons of very small hotels that offer reasonable rates both on the Left and Right banks. Since it will be fall, you don't have to worry about air conditioning, which can be lacking in the small properties. The St. Germain des Pres area is very happening (Left Bank), but when I go back, I would also consider staying in the Marais (Right Bank) which is funky and quieter (and cheaper).

What else... our favorite experiences involved just strolling along, seeing an inviting cafe, and sitting on the sidewalk with a glass of wine or a cup of cafe creme watching the city go by... you will love it!
-Stacey

[mbrogier]

Definitely do the Louvre. Mona was ok--go see it just to say you did. I was the most impressed with the Winged Victory, and the fuscia toilet paper in the bathroom. :D The greek and roman sculptures are magnificent.

I think October is supposed to be cooler, but you can get a heat wave. (that's usually my luck when I travel)

[Capucine]

Several years ago I went in October. Thought is was the absolute perfect time to go. We definately didn't need a coat. In fact, it got a little warm in the middle of the day. But really it was very comfortable weather. Maybe weather underground can give you the averages. However, I would be checking as you get closer because we never have "average" here!! LOL!!

I'm so excited for you. I skipped the Louvre. Not because I don't want to see it. I just assumed I was coming back. And I'm still determined to go back. Hopefully more than once!!! I did go to the Musee D'orsay. There was a line to get in there as well. But I don't remember waiting hours. Maybe one hour. And, it's not small. We didn't get through the whole thing because we didn't want to spend the whole day there. Definately saw the Impressionist collection!! Wonderful!!

My absolute favorite was the Rodin. It was small. So I liked that. And, I'm a gardener and there was a beautiful garden with his work throughout. Including The Thinker!!! Gotta see that!! The most fascinating piece to me was at the very end. The name of it was The Gates of Hell. And it had pieces of all his works on it. Now, the fascinating thing to me was that he did this composite of his life's work and named it The Gates of Hell. hmmmm!!!

[leebee]

I only had a few days in Paris when I went several years ago, and I did have a "special ticket" to avoid the lines at the Louvre. I did enjoy it, but honestly I do wish I had spent the time seeing some other things. I could go on without having seen the Mona Lisa. I found that Venus de Milo looked very, very much like my cousin Bill. And Winged Victory was just standing there, headless, on a stairway balcony. The food in the cafeteria was most excellent, though! All in all, had we skipped the Louvre, I wouldn't have missed it, although it seems a must for a "one-time-only" trip to Paris. I felt the same way about our trip to Versailles. I would recommend the grounds/gardens, but wish I had skipped the cattle run, I mean tour of the interior. My mother has gone to the Rodin garden & says it is a must-see, even if you think you won't love it.

The most impressive, overwhelming, gorgeous, wonderous thing I saw was Sainte Chapelle, which is surrounded by the Palais du Justice. I don't know if this is the stained glass you are referring to, but it was beautiful. I wish had taken more time to just soak it in.

I agree that it is necessary to get out and just walk around, wherever you are. We actually got lost one day and it was the best day of all (we knew we'd eventually figure out where we were!). We found the best food that day, saw the most beautiful old streets and it was QUIET! We also went up to the top of Sacre Coeur in Montmartre & spent the rest of the afternoon just wandering around--that was a nice day, too. I had the best ham sandwich of my life and found a pain au chocolat so fresh, the melted chocolate almost burned my mouth. I am dizzy thinking about the delight...

[Capucine]

Meant to say before, I stayed in the 7th. Which some people think is too far away from things. I loved it. We were only about 3 or 4 blocks away from the Eiffel Tower. Could see it out the hotel window....how perfect is that when your in Paris...looking at the Eiffel Tower first thing in the AM and last thing at night. Also, there was a metro station between the hotel & the Eiffel Tower...very close. We walked to many things from there, including the Rodin and the Musee D'orsay. And Napoleon's Tomb was just up the street from us too. I went. Probably wouldn't have if it weren't so close though.

I wish I were planning a trip for ME!!! :(

[Meganator]

I felt the same way about our trip to Versailles. I would recommend the grounds/gardens, but wish I had skipped the cattle run, I mean tour of the interior.

This is probably really dependent on the time of year...we were there in March, and it wasn't crowded. By late September, I think the summer crowds will be diminished all around Paris, so I think your experience will be good. You should still get the museum pass to bypass whatever lines there are, though! The Musuem Pass will get you into Versailles, also, although not the guided tour (you get to see some extra stuff on the guided tour).

I think the Musuem Pass is available at some major metro stations now, in addition to the museums where it can be used. One hint: don't go to a crowded museum first to buy your pass - get it at the metro station or one of the less crowded (no-line) museums. We bought ours at the Conciergerie next to Saint Chappelle.

[mbrogier]

A lot of the cathedrals and chapels hold concerts open to the public. We scored tickets to one in Saint Chappelle. It was really crowded getting inside because it was a really famous French violinist. I really didn't care that much for the concert, but I loved looking at the chapel at night for an hour. :p

[Beth H]

I think the Musuem Pass is available at some major metro stations now, in addition to the museums where it can be used.

Yes, the museum pass is for sale at most major metro stops - that's where I bought mine (at the Ecole Millitaire stop [sp.]). I think the museum pass also encourages you to stop in at museums you might not pay to go into otherwise - I know it did DH and me, at least.

I haven't seen a hotel recommendation yet. I have stayed twice at the Hotel Muguet which is a small hotel in the 7th district - near the Eiffel tower. It's really a wondeful hotel. When we stayed there (when the exchange rate was still pretty good), it was around $100 US. I looked at their web site recently, and I think it's more like $125 US now. But - it's a very clean, wondefully located hotel. I love the 7th (even though in terms of nightlife, there are more "happening" districts).

In terms of what to pack - I wouldn't lug a trench coat over there. Do you have a goretex (or other waterproof jacket)? That layered over a sweater would probably be warmer, yet lighter to carry.

I love Paris - definitely one of my favorite places in the world.

[skyllo]

You all are making me even more excited, thanks everyone. One good thing I realized last night is that we will be there the first sunday of the month which will mean there is no charge at most of the museums (although I suppose this will make them pretty crowded). And according to the weather website, average high for early october is around the mid-60's so that sounds good to me.
I agree, I think just wandering around and people watching and exploring will be the best part, I think I will be amused just by hearing people speak french. Especially little kids, it's just so cute.
I was thinking this morning how when I picture Paris in my head, I tend to think of it in black and white, how weird is that? I guess because of all those pictures of the rainy days in paris. But even if it's rainy I'll be happy, it will make for great photos. It's a good thing I have the 512 MB in my digital camera, I'll be so photo happy.

Sarah

[Capucine]

LOL!! Funny you should mention the children. The day we were walking to the Rodin we passed a group of school children. Looked like around 1st grade age. We were just totally charmed by all of them talking to each other. In french of course, what else would it be in Paris? LOL!! We laughed at ourselves. It was so cute!!!

[granolagirl]

Have a FABULOUS time! Which, you will, because it's Paris! Get some comfy shoes and a Metro map and you are set. Go and check out all of the sights, but I really think my favorite thing about Paris was just lots and lots of walking, the cafe's, the boulangerie's, the food, the wine and just being in Paris. :)

[Kyra]

Pre-trip advice:

Since you're in Minneapolis (I lived there for seven years! Still miss it lots!), I would advise you go to REI for your backpack. A helpful employee spent lots of time very patiently making sure I was properly fitted (this included me walking around the store for an hour, backpack fully loaded, to make sure it was comfortable and fit OK), etc. It was absolutely worth my time and the money.

Rick Steves' web site has some good packing tips, as well as location info.

The Internet has lots of information, but don't forget good old fashioned guidebooks. I suggest hitting up the local library so you don't spend a fortune on stuff you don't like. (Before our trip to London, I read every guidebook I could put my hands on. My husband teased me about the piles of books all over our house for weeks, but he stopped laughing once we got there!) Or spend some time "browsing" at Barnes and Noble. For very in-depth information about buildings, historic sites, museums, etc., check out the Blue Guide series.

If you're a big Impressionist fan, what about a side trip to Giverny to see Monet's house and gardens?

Don't forget a good city map! I am fond of the Streetwise laminated maps, but again, choose one you like.

And if you do go to REI, there's a fabulous Afghani restaurant very close by (or there used to be). Have the Kabeli Pulao for me!

I hope you have a marvelous time, and keep us posted about your plans.

Happy travels!

[mbrogier]

When I was in Paris in '97, my mom's backpack was searched at the Eiffel Tower. I have heard since from several different people that large bags are not allowed in major tourist areas because of the terrorist risks. You might want to consider that when you pick out your bag. I got one of those one armed healthy bags--medium. It was big enough for my SLR camera, lenses, bottled water, map, etc. but it wasn't large enough that I was getting stopped. It was also really easy to hold at my side to keep pickpockets away.

[MiMo]

If you like modern art, check out the Centre Pompidou, too. It's a funky place. I usually don't get into modern art much, but I had fun for a few hours there. I love the Rodin as others have mentioned, too. Some of my best Paris pictures are of the gardens and statues at the Rodin. If you have time, check out the Catacombs, too. For some odd reason, that was one of my favorite things we visited when I last went to Paris (six years ago).

Have fun, Sarah!!!

[skyllo]

Thanks for the tips, Kyra, REI is on my list for this Saturday already :-) I have a pack in mind, but then I realized it's too big for a carry on, not sure if I really need to have a carry on though... I do have to somehow find room to bring back some wine and stuff, oh, the little details...
I've been the same way with guide books, I checked out a bunch of the summer, before I officially had my tickets or time to go set, I tend to overplan and research everything, I'm getting tired of it by now and just want to go! My poor friend just decided at the last minute to come with so she's real nervous about everything and doesn't speak a bit of french, but I know enough and I've heard most Parisians speak english anyway. I'm always spending my morning breaks at the Barnes and Noble right across the street from where I work in the travel section!
Thanks again--

Sarah

[Capucine]

Oh, I would definately have a carry on. Especially on the trip over. You only have to have your luggage "delayed" once to learn that lesson. Carry everything you would need for one day and night. I've never had luggage not arrive within 24 hours...although, I'm sure it can happen.

[Meganator]

Oh, I would definately have a carry on. Especially on the trip over. You only have to have your luggage "delayed" once to learn that lesson. Carry everything you would need for one day and night. I've never had luggage not arrive within 24 hours...although, I'm sure it can happen.


More likely to happen if you don't plan for it! It doesn't have to be big, but take your toiletries, contact lens stuff if you have it, medications; and I NEVER check cameras, jewelry, valuables like that. And it's a long trip - you at least need a paperback book! On my last trip, the seatback video system didn't work in my row. On that same trip, the day we flew over was apparently a bad day in history for Air France...SO MANY bags were delayed that they refused to guarantee delivery of the delayed bags to our hotel, so we ended up having to wait at the airport for about 3 more hours until they arrived on a later flight.